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“惊险”美味俏江南(家乡美味·品味舌尖上的农村)

2017-09-03 05:15:56   中国青年网

图为厨师(左一)在烹饪河豚。

吉战顺摄

河豚鲜美,为众多文人雅士所爱,从苏东坡到李渔都留下了关于河豚的佳句。作为长江三鲜之一的河豚,要想食得正宗鲜味,必得去江苏扬中。

河豚有毒,为一般人所惧怕,但在扬中,吃河豚却有千百年的历史,户户烧河豚,村村有高手。

河豚能做出多少道菜?在扬中厨师手里,可以制作成150多道各式菜肴,炸、炖、烩、蒸、炒,样样都能行。2008年,扬中8位特级河豚烹饪大师出了一本《扬中河豚菜谱》,从传统的红烧、白煨到现代的刺身、点心,100多个菜谱尽显河豚烹饪的妙法。

河豚味美恰在烹饪时对毒素的控制上,增一分则有毒,少一分则味无。比如“熬河豚肝”,这是扬中河豚烹饪中的看家“绝活”:河豚肝在油中,一点点由浅乳白变成淡黄,变为蜜桃黄,变成腊梅黄,又由香蕉黄变成棕黄、黄褐,何时扬油降温,这是河豚味美的关键。

传统扬中河豚的做法只有红烧、白汤两种,味道单一,而且比较油腻。近年来,扬中的厨师出国学习后对传统烧制进行了改良。宰杀上,将浸泡放血改为挤血,减少了自来水对鲜美味道的干扰。烹饪技法上,弃用以河豚脂肪炸油的烧法,改为用河豚肝与小榨豆油一起熬制直接烹调,增加了河豚的美味。此外,扬中河豚的烹制十分注重配料的选择,扬中春天出产燕竹笋和秧草,当河豚游至扬中段时,正值这些蔬菜上市之时,烧制时配上这些辅料,别是一番美滋味。

现在的扬中河豚通常吃法有3种:红烧、河豚烧秧草、河豚烧泡饭。此外,还有白汁河豚、奶香河豚、河豚刺身等新花样。当然,河豚烹饪的最高境界当属全身通吃的“河豚宴”,60道菜里包括生涮河豚肝、河豚肝捞饭、美极河豚子等。

由于近年来对长江生态环境保护力度加强,现在的河豚都是养殖而来。虽然一年365天都能吃上河豚,但季节却有讲究,清明前后,是一年中品尝河豚的最佳时期,因为此时正是河豚产卵时节,也是河豚最毒、最肥美的时候。每年这个时节,扬中还会举办河豚节,在一个多月的时间里,人们除了吃河豚还能赏樱花、自驾游、体验当地风情民俗。

小贴士

怎么吃:河豚剧毒可致死,因此烹饪河豚必须有执照,千万不要购买后利用互联网搜索自行烹饪。扬中的河豚一年四季都能吃到,但是清明前后口感尤佳。

怎么去:从南京出发,上沪宁高速,从丹阳出口出,行驶大约20公里,直达扬中。

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