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设计师张恩认为,“半定制”使一件衣服的优雅得以流转
央广网广州8月28日消息(记者何伟奇)半定制,多见于珠宝行业,尤其是价值昂贵的钻石与彩宝系列,顾客可以在既定的样板中挑选喜欢的,再与既定的工艺搭配组合,完成专属个人的定制服务。在日前广东时装周期间举行的2017年渡诺nunu&nono·张恩女装新品发布会上,设计师张恩表示,目前服装的半定制,是敢于把定制市场忽略的日常成衣圈起来,为顾客塑造更个性化的日常流动衣橱。简而言之,顾客可以更简单直接地对选中的基本日常款进行半定制改造,选择自己更喜欢的颜色、面料、领口款式、裙摆幅度等。
当晚发布会的新品时装秀上,分为三大主线:开篇的香槟色和驼色、中间的黑色和灰色、重磅的轻晚礼服。这当中要以打破的传统的轻晚礼服尤为出色:大胆以T恤衫自由搭配晚礼服纱裙,轻松愉快的优雅组合,让女性从被繁复累赘的设计解放出来,取而代之是简约轮廓,诠释的是现代轻优雅范儿。作为国内推行“半定制概念”的先行者,设计师张恩认为,三个新品系列灵感,源自对当代繁忙都市人现状的观察所得。她认为,人们似乎每天都在不停的工作,三点一线地生活,却忘记了人生最值得去回味的喜怒哀乐。而第二个系列代表挣扎,黑灰的色系代表着过度人生的颜色;第三系列,得到自由和平等的独立精神,两种对立的精神不断对抗,最终来奠定本该有的生活态度,自由与平等。张恩希望透过每一件衣服,传递给繁忙现代女性一种优雅、时尚、艺术的气息——不念过去,不畏将来,活出真我。同时还可以通过服装的“半定制”,追求每一件衣服穿在身上后与自己获得的微妙平衡。这种“半定制”概念,就是要完成服装“将优雅变成一种不断变换的流动态度”的使命。
业内专家认为,传统的服装生产已不能满足目前消费者多样化需求,促使服装生产商和时尚产业转换新的业态形式,如量身定制,尤其是更亲民的“轻定制”、“半定制”受到不少消费者的青睐。
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