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“网红”餐厅? 不要太迷恋

2017-08-18 08:23:12   中国青年网

饭点时需要等上三四个小时才能排上餐位的某“网红”餐厅,近日被上海网友爆料称,餐具内出现了十几条正在蠕动的蛆虫。目前,相关餐品已经下架,上海徐汇区市场监管局已介入调查。不过,令人吃惊的是,尽管爆出食品安全问题,晚餐时门口依然排起了长队。(见8月16日《新民晚报》)

“网红”餐厅出现问题食品不意外,因为“网红”餐厅并不等于安全餐厅。而且其“红”的原因,未必是因为食品安全多有保障,而很可能是因为起了个独特的名字,或是因为某一道菜,还有可能是通过人为炒作并借助互联网传播变成“网红”。比如使用“高颜值”的原材料、雇人排队、饥饿营销、找网络大V炒作等。

所以,不要盲目相信“网红”餐厅,因为其很可能不是靠商业道德“红”起来的。目前很多消费者对“网红”餐厅很迷恋,或认为到“网红”餐厅消费是一种时尚,或认为“网红”是服务品质的折射,或认为顾客多说明值得放心……某种角度上说,正是因为部分消费者不够理智,才把“网红”餐厅越捧越高。

“网红”餐厅红得很快,而管理往往跟不上其红的速度。虽然顾客多在一定程度上反映出该餐厅口碑不错,但“网红”并不是其食品安全的保证。反过来看,餐厅太红,反而可能使经营者滋生自满心理进而疏于管理,衍生出其它问题。既然成了“网红”,名气大、人气旺,就更应该做好各方面管理和保障。不仅餐厅经营者要有这种意识,市场监管者也要有这种意识。而目前来看,这种意识比较稀缺。

食品安全才是餐厅生存发展的基础。如今的消费者虽然追求吃得好看、新奇,但更重视吃得安全。希望“网红”餐厅吃出蛆的案例,能给其他“网红”或试图当“网红”的餐厅更多警示,也给监管者更多提醒——“网红”不是法外之地,对“网红”的监管不能有丝毫松懈或例外。

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