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【砥砺奋进的五年·人权篇】南京云锦:传统技艺在传承与保护中发展
云锦制作的蒙娜丽莎画像
国际在线报道(记者李菁、马洁):南京云锦以其精美华贵为世人所惊叹,也因其材料讲究、做工精细而被称为“寸锦寸金”。为了使这一民族瑰宝得到保护与传承,国家投入大量人力物力,使得南京云锦的织造技艺不断发扬光大。
南京云锦起源于公元417年。在古代,只有皇室和高官才有资格使用这种珍贵的织物。由于南京云锦图案复杂,一些工艺,特别是“妆花”手工艺,至今无法由机器替代。正因如此,南京云锦在申报联合国教科文组织人类非物质文化遗产时使用的名目就是“云锦妆花织造技艺”。国家级非物质文化遗产项目代表性传承人周双喜说,机器制造的织物,图案千篇一律,而手工技艺则完全不同,“如果在一个织物的门幅上需要织六朵花,我们采用了‘挖花盘织’技艺以后,六朵花可以完全不一样,叫做逐花异色,它就不受颜色的限制了,而且颜色更丰富。就是这个工艺,机器是无法取代的。”
手工织造的云锦,一天只能织出5厘米。再加上云锦制作需要黄金、孔雀羽毛等珍贵材料,因此称之为“寸锦寸金”一点也不为过。周双喜说,“‘寸锦寸金’是因为它的用料比较考究。云锦的特点是‘三妆’,即‘妆金’、‘妆彩’,‘妆孔雀羽毛’。还有一个原因就是费工时,所以称它为‘寸锦寸金’。因为它以前是用来给皇帝做衣服的,因此工艺必须是最高的,用料必须是最考究的。”
然而,这一流传了1600多年的传统工艺在上世纪中叶几乎失传。新中国成立后,国家投入大量人力物力来拯救云锦,于是便有了南京云锦研究所。该所的活动策划负责人饶雪介绍说,“1956年,周恩来总理说过:‘一定要南京的同志,把云锦工艺继承下来,发扬光大!’正是在这个指示下,第二年,也就是1957年,江苏省政府批准建立了新中国第一家工艺美术类研究所。这个南京云锦研究所成立之后,将诞生于公元417年的云锦一直保护传承到现今,并且在进行不断的创新。”
经过多年的努力,南京云锦的织造技艺得以保护和传承。周双喜说,如今国家对于云锦保护依然投入很大,例如对云锦研究和开发项目的资金支持,对传承人的评定和补贴等等,这些政策在一定程度上都对这门传统技艺的保护和传承起到了积极作用。
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