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为你朗读 ▏斯雄《大通记》

2017-08-07 18:31:02   央广网

(大通镇是安徽特色名镇之一 资料图片)

 《大通记》

  文/斯雄 朗读/弥亚牛

皖南自古多商埠,“码头文化”兴盛。知名者如芜湖、安庆,还有后来的马鞍山与铜陵。

说来惭愧,三过铜陵,始知其下有大通镇,竟曾与芜湖、安庆、蚌埠并称“安徽四大商埠”。

于是乘兴而往,所见所闻,讶异不已。

“一舍不得和悦洲上的花花世界;

二舍不得关门口的鲜鱼、小菜;

三舍不得‘生源’茶干一个铜板一块;

四舍不得‘万春’的瓜子一嗑两开;

五舍不得‘兰芝茶室’的包子和烧卖;

六舍不得洄字巷的姑娘拉拉拽拽;

七舍不得‘八帮大会’上的千奇百怪;

八舍不得五月端午的龙舟竞赛;

九舍不得鸦片烟馆的殷勤招待;

十舍不得长龙山上的黄土一块……”

这首名为《和悦洲“十不舍”》的民谣,曾在大通镇及周边地区广为传唱,不经意地为我们记录并印证了大通的繁盛。

大通,古名澜溪,现为铜陵市西南郊区镇。其位置正对长江东流向北的转折之处,青通河在此流入长江。西北与枞阳隔江相望,南以青通河与贵池、青阳交界,距佛教名山九华山九十公里。大通水路四通八达,江心有和悦洲控制江涛,江岸有羊山矶抵御风浪,最宜舟楫往来停泊。

从大通的码头坐渡船西去,十分钟即抵对岸的和悦洲。和悦洲系长江中的沙洲,呈南北向,因江水大转弯流速变缓,泥沙淤积而成。靠大通一侧的水道相对较窄,谓之鹊江。唐孟浩然“火炽梅根冶,烟迷杨叶洲”诗句中的杨叶洲,就是现在的和悦洲,因其形状像杨柳叶子。沙洲因水流而变,经岁月的荡涤,不停地改变形状,正如唐代顾况《短歌行》所言,“岸上沙,昔为江水今人家”。明代以后,杨叶洲改称荷叶洲,大约是沙洲的形状变得像荷叶了。由荷叶洲改名为和悦洲,有两种说法,都与清朝水师提督、湘军首领彭玉麟有关。一说是因洲上人为土地、为生意争讼不断,彭氏将荷叶洲改名为和悦洲,寓意“生意人应和颜悦色,方可生意兴隆”;一说是彭氏到此操练水师,认为荷叶岁有枯荣,因讳其意而谐其音,改名“和悦”。

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