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又是向中国游客推销次等品!丹麦生蚝只是个诱饵

2017-04-29 08:14:48   

近日,丹麦驻华大使馆发布了看似撒娇的一则微博,大意是:俺们丹麦屯满海滩都是不远万里而来的太平洋牡蛎,把高贵的珍稀的本土Limfjord生蚝快赶尽杀绝了,谁来帮帮俺们!日子都快过不下去了!

这个消息一出,犹如召集群雄的“圣火令”重现江湖。“海外探客”发现,仅仅一夜之间该微博吸引的网友留言数量就高达1万多条,中心思想就是“都别拦着,让我们中国人去解决问题”。不过仔细一想,事情仿佛没有那么简单。

中学课本里有一篇莫泊桑的小说《我的叔叔于勒》,里面讲到当年欧洲人是这么吃牡蛎的:“手拿小刀一下撬开,递给两位先生,再由他们递给两位太太。太太们的吃法很文雅,用一方小巧手帕托着牡蛎,头稍向前伸,免得弄脏长袍;然后嘴很快地微微一动,就把汁水吸进去,蛎壳扔到海里。”可见欧洲人并非不吃这种海鲜,自产自销还是有希望的。

那么问题出在哪里?丹麦驻沪领馆工作人员向记者表示:“丹麦人很少吃生蚝,因价格很贵。”在哥本哈根的普通餐厅,最高等级的Limfjord生蚝每个约60丹麦克朗,折合人民币60元左右。言外之意就是我们吃不起。而丹麦最好的生蚝就是Limfjord生蚝,被誉为”生蚝皇冠上的明珠”,是全球不可多得的美食。卖这么贵似乎也情有可原。更何况Limfjord生蚝还面临“鸠占鹊巢”的严重危机,在太平洋生蚝的侵略与围剿下领地日渐缩小。正所谓物以稀为贵。

不过事实却似乎并非如此。丹麦的生蚝危机,始作俑者是法国渔民,正是他们于1966年将太平洋生蚝引入欧洲,进行大量养殖。30年后这些外乡生蚝“入侵”到丹麦一侧的瓦登海海域。丹麦人实际上也爱吃生蚝,而且主要吃本土的Limfjord生蚝,在他们看来太平洋生蚝属于次等品,因此严重滞销,没有需求就没有捕捞,最后才造成生态灾难。食品专家、中国农大副教授朱毅表示,生蚝很温和,没有攻击性,不会危害当地的生态环境。但也必须承认,生蚝确实会因为数量太多而挤压别的动物生存空间,破坏生态平衡。此前,大闸蟹破坏了德国堤坝,凶猛的亚洲鲤鱼能吃会“飞”,把美国渔民吓得不轻。为了解决本国过剩的食品资源,丹麦方面与德国和美国的做法很相似,将目光聚焦在世界最大的消费市场——中国。

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