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台湾人亲历大陆“特色小吃” 鸭仔蛋挑战心理极限

2017-09-11 01:15:53   参考消息

参考消息网9月11日报道 台湾中时电子报9月6日刊登台湾人刘先昌的《旅行大陆 最爱特殊小吃》一文,文章记述了他在大陆旅行时对各地小吃的心得体会。文章摘编如下:

大陆幅员广阔,区域是以方位称之,如华东、华南、华中、华北、大西南、大西北、更远之处称东北,民众也以朝北、朝南来指路;山川阻隔气候各异,南北作物不同,各地人体型相差甚大,饮食习惯更是南辕北辙大不相同。

鸭仔蛋

赴大陆旅行就是观赏风景、走访名胜古迹、尝遍地方美食、增广各地见闻。北面南米、北咸南甜、外加川湘黔的麻与辣,每到一处肠胃就需重新适应一次。但旅行价值之一就是尝到风味不同的小吃,记忆中有几样是从未吃过与见过的,值得写下回味。

2000年赴贵州朋友家作客,吃饭时桌上有一碟白色像根茎一样小菜,拌辣椒酱醋,主人家频频伸筷吃着,我也试着挟一根试吃,一股从未有过的味道在舌蕾上悠转,一种淡淡腥味在口中萦绕,我问到菜名,他们告诉我是“鱼腥草”。第一次听到这名词,主人补充说是采自野外有清热解毒、化痰排脓增强免疫功效,我说不上喜欢,但是入境随俗是能做到的。

2008年在曲阜工作,假日逛五马祠街,见一家小店玻璃门上大大红字:“驴肉火烧”,好奇的进去点了一份,外加一碗紫菜蛋花汤,店主正在炭炉上烤烧饼,烤好的饼一个个放在藤篮里,女主人则夹盘中略显红色的肉肴塞进剖开烧饼里,套在纸袋里交给我,我咬上一口,不同于牛猪羊口味,肉香饼酥咬劲十足,紫菜汤亦颇鲜美,总价才八元,方知卤过的驴肉果然美味。

山东东阿地区以驴皮熬制的补品“阿胶”,借着“后宫甄嬛传”名扬两岸,想起老一辈的人曾说“天上龙肉、地上驴肉”,果然有道理。

此外,山东夏季山区傍晚,常见居民手拿一只瓶子,到树上搜罗,一时不知他们找寻何物,经观察询问,方知正在抓由土中爬出的蚕蛹,论斤卖给农家乐餐厅,厨师稍微处理后,以大火热油爆炒,一大盘“炒蚕蛹”就上桌了,口感酥脆且营养价值不低,我也随俗的同尝新鲜物。

最让我惊讶的是在广西吃到的“鸭仔蛋”,2016年我往中越边境东兴口岸旅游,清晨在闹市上见到一位越南女店主,摊上碗里放着一颗像白色荔枝肉般东西,我好奇地观察了很久,初以为是红毛丹果,经询问一旁正在吃的男士,他说是越南小吃鸭仔蛋,才想起曾听说过是未孵化的鸭仔,此时放在热水中保温着,以免冷却腥味太重。

客人坐定,女店主将蛋壳剥掉,配上桔子、香菜、酱料端出。知道来历后虽心感怪异,但是好奇心加上吃两份鸭仔蛋的东北人推荐,终于下了决心叫来一份,也“如法炮制”加上香料酱汁,大胆吃下,因为蛋是热的不闻腥味,吃来就像在吃一般的蛋,要突破的是心理障碍,我终还是吃了一份特异小吃,也算是旅游特别之事。

中华文化博大精深,美食文化名扬全球,大陆地广人多、菜系分类井然有序,就像瞎子摸象般,我只接触到极少数小吃,对未能发掘的特殊小吃肯定极多,但在旅行中能亲尝不一样的食物,而且印象深刻,也算是不虚此生。

责任编辑:任冲 CN062
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