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糖:让日常生活更甜蜜

2017-08-05 08:35:04   中国经济网

①制糖工艺的进步给糖味食品也提供了更大空间,各种各样的手工糖果出现。

②在各大超市,散装白糖、冰糖依旧可见,它们仍旧是普通百姓厨房里很受欢迎的调味品。

③如今,超市里蜜糖、蔗糖、果糖等琳琅满目,最受欢迎的是古方红糖,切成精致的小块装成一盒,价格四五十元。

李华林摄

糖,从西域走入中原,走进皇家宫殿,又走入了寻常百姓家,可佐烹调、可资药食,一直滋润着我们的生活——

煮一壶咖啡,加块方糖,苦涩中有甘;熬一碗白粥,放勺砂糖,软绵中带甜。这些常见的黄色、红色、黑色、白色等各色糖品,早已是我们生活中随手拈来的寻常食物。然而,它却有着十分悠久的历史。糖曾从西域走入中原,走进皇家宫殿,又走入了寻常百姓家,被用作烹饪、调味、医药和副食,从古至今滋润着人们的甜蜜生活。

糖,从上古走来

人们对糖的追求,向来孜孜不倦。关于糖的记录,最早在《诗经》中出现端倪“周原膴膴,堇荼如饴”。《书经》中又提及“稼穑作甘”,说明当时的人已经能直接用淀粉制麦芽糖。到了南方开始种植甘蔗时,为获取甜味,人们榨取“柘浆”直接饮用,或作为水果生吃。后来,以暴晒煎煮去掉蔗浆中的部分水分,尝试对蔗浆做粗加工,制成甜度较高的“蔗饧”。

无论是“饴”还是“蔗饧”,糖对于当时的普通百姓是难得一见的奢侈品,被寄予了幸福和圆满的意象,“食蔗高年乐,含饴稚子欢”是很多人的人生理想,“含饴弄孙”更是东汉章帝时期马皇后的晚年憧憬。

唐贞观年间,唐太宗殷羡西域蔗糖干燥易储、食用方便,派人去印度学习熬糖法,制出了品质一流、颜色黄白的好糖块。北宋时期,大食国向朝廷进献“白砂糖”,并将“树灰炼糖法”传授给福州糖工,真正的白砂糖这才出现。从唐宋开始,手工制糖技术得到发展,土法制取的白糖、黄糖均已出现,城市中已经有诸多糖作坊,《东京梦华录》中有了“素签沙糖”“鸡头穰沙糖”等小吃和“西川乳糖”“狮子糖”等甜点,此时的糖才作为食品,被广泛消费,日渐走向民间。

不过,即便如此,在很长一段时期里,糖还是非常昂贵的物品,质优味美的糖类食物,如白砂糖等,仍是十分稀少并难得。以糖制作而成的甜品,只有在重大节庆时才得以被人品尝,由此诞生了粽子、月饼、元宵等甜腻的传统食品。

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