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走进日本最著名百年清酒制造厂 听金牌酿酒师讲日本清酒技艺

2017-08-07 10:05:54   中国青年网

爆款“丸田”

俗话说“酒香不怕巷子深”,这话放在邻国日本同样适用。在距离首府札幌1小时车程的北海道中部小城夕张郡栗山町,藏着全日本最著名的百年清酒制造厂——小林酒造。除酿酒这一招牌产业外,小林酒造旗下还经营着咖啡厅、餐厅、商店、美术馆和博物馆。令人匪夷所思的是,这家庞大的家族企业从未上市,仅凭15名员工的力量就创造出每年2.8亿日元的销售神话。他们是如何做到的?背后又有什么秘诀?《环球时报》记者日前走进这家神秘酒厂,听日本顶级清酒师南修司讲述一杯清酒背后的故事与坚持。

误入“非典型行业”,曾无数次想放弃

红色石砖垒起的酒窖、废弃铁轨支撑的房梁,使得小林酒造整体氛围别具一格,成为日本影视剧的热门取景地,由高仓健主演的《铁道员》就是其中之一。小林酒造创立于1878年,占地3.3万平方米,完好保存着18座历史悠久的酒窖,2006年被列为日本有形文化财产。

南修司是这里唯一的酿酒师,他还带了一个20岁的徒弟。32年前,20岁的南修司跟多数年轻人一样,对未来感到迷茫。一位当时在小林酒造工作的熟人,看重他踏实肯干,就介绍他过来帮忙。酿酒工作主要集中在秋冬,南修司对这一行完全不懂,认为这是一份可以“干半年,歇半年”的工作,便欣然应允。

谁知还不到一年,南修司就曾无数次想要辞职。刚来时,他连学徒都算不上,充其量是个打杂的。搬运货物、清洗工具、打扫庭院……所有脏活累活重活都归他,年纪轻轻,也时常感到“身体吃不消”。相比肉体,更让南修司痛苦的是“精神上的折磨”。当时和他年龄最接近的前辈43岁,他不仅连个说话的人都没有,还必须时刻注意对所有人“保持恭敬”。工作量大、辛苦繁杂、收入不高,而且在亲朋好友眼中,清酒师始终是个“非典型职业”,尽快在企业里谋个职位才是正经事。在内因外力的作用下,南修司一遍遍问自己,“做这份工作,到底为了什么?”

栗山町是个小地方,另谋高就并非易事,南修司决定再咬牙坚持一下。3年后,他终于熬成学徒,师父把清酒酿造技术毫无保留地传授给他。“懂得多了才慢慢体会到酿酒的乐趣,“这真是个奥妙无穷的行业。”

30岁那年,被南修司视为父亲的师父突然撒手人寰,他才意识到,整个小林酒造能独当一面的清酒师就剩他一人了。于他而言,这已不仅是份工作,更是责任。南修司终于回答了自己的那个问题:自己的使命就是酿好每杯清酒,做一辈子清酒师。

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